So you're shopping for blank tees and suddenly you're staring down words like "combed ring spun," "gsm or g/m²," "side seamed," and "garment dyed." It reads like a spec sheet for a laptop you didn't ask to understand. But just like buying a phone — where you'd check the storage, battery, and screen resolution before committing — knowing what these numbers and terms actually mean makes the difference between a tee that lasts and one that disappoints.
Bonus - these applies to blank hoodies too!
Here's your plain-English decoder for blank apparel specs.
Quick Reference Cheat Sheet
| Term | What It Means |
|---|---|
| gsm or g/m² | Fabric weight — higher = thicker |
| Ring Spun | Softer, stronger yarn |
| Combed Ring Spun | Even softer — impurities removed |
| CVC | Cotton-polyester blend, cotton majority |
| Garment Dyed | Dyed after construction — vintage look |
| Side Seamed | Shaped panels, better fit |
| Tubular | No side seams, simpler construction |
| Double Needle | Extra stitching for durability |
| Tear Away Label | No scratchy tag |
| Half Chest | Half the full chest measurement |
Fabric Composition
This is the single biggest factor in how a shirt feels and performs.
100% Cotton is the most common. It's breathable, soft, and easy to print on. The trade-off is it can shrink and wrinkle more than blends. You'll see this on workhorses like the Gildan and American Apparel
Ring Spun Cotton means the cotton fibres have been twisted and thinned during spinning to create a stronger, softer yarn. It's noticeably nicer against your skin than standard open-end spun cotton. For example, check out our go-to shirt, the 65000 Gildan Softstyle Adult Midweight T-Shirt
Combed Ring Spun Cotton takes it a step further — the fibres are also combed to remove short, rough strands before spinning. The result is the smoothest, most premium-feeling cotton you'll find on a blank tee. American Apparel has a great lineup of combed ring spun cotton blanks
Pre-Shrunk Cotton means the fabric has been treated so it won't shrink much further when you wash it at home. If a product doesn't say pre-shrunk, assume some shrinkage.
CVC (Chief Value Cotton) is a cotton-polyester blend where cotton makes up the majority — typically 60/40. The polyester adds stretch recovery and reduces shrinkage, while the cotton keeps it soft. American Apparel's 101CVC is a good example: 60% combed ring spun cotton, 40% recycled polyester.
Fabric Weight (gsm or g/m²)
This is the weight of the fabric - grams per square metre - basically a measure of how thick or substantial the tee is.
Under 150 gsm — Very lightweight, sheer, almost silky. Great for layering or summer wear, less ideal for standalone use.
150–175 gsm — Lightweight. Soft and drapey. Common in fashion-forward cuts.
180–200 gsm — Mid-weight. The most versatile range. Sits well, holds shape, works year-round.
200+ gsm — Heavyweight. Thick, structured, holds up to heavy use and frequent washing. The UCT280 Urban Collab at 280 gsm and 9001 American Apparel Super Heavyweight T-Shirt at 300 gsm are classics in this range.
Think of it like thread count in bedsheets — higher isn't always better, but it sure is heavier and thicker!
Fit
Classic Fit — The standard cut. Sits comfortably without being oversized or tight. Works for most body types
Relaxed Fit — Slightly looser than classic. More casual, easy-going silhouette
Boxy Fit — Wider across the chest and shoulders with a shorter body. On-trend for streetwear and oversized looks.
Shaped Fit — Tapered at the waist, follows the body's contour. More feminine cut. Common in women's styles.
Construction Terms
Side Seamed — Look at the shirt you are wearing now. Look at the sides. Does it look like they are joined/stitched together? That is side seamed. It allows for a more contoured, fitted shape
Tubular Body — Knitted as one continuous tube with no side seams. Cheaper to produce, less structured. Not necessarily bad — some people prefer the look.
Double Needle Hem — The bottom hem (and sometimes sleeves) are sewn with two parallel rows of stitching. This adds durability and gives a clean, professional finish.
Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping — A strip of fabric sewn inside across the shoulder seam. Stops the collar from stretching out of shape over time.
Set-In Rib Collar — The neckband is a separate piece of ribbed fabric sewn onto the shirt. More structured and durable than a simple folded hem.
Tear Away Label — The label is designed to be removed cleanly, leaving no scratchy tag. Essential if you're adding your own branded labels.
Dyeing & Finishing
Garment Dyed — The shirt is constructed first, then dyed as a finished garment. This gives a soft, lived-in, slightly uneven appearance — that warm vintage look you see on Comfort Colors products. No two pieces come out exactly the same.
Piece Dyed — The fabric is dyed before the shirt is cut and sewn. More uniform colour, cleaner finish.
Soft Washed — A finishing process that runs the garment through a wash cycle to soften the fabric and pre-shrink it before sale. Feels broken-in from day one.
Faded / Pigment Dyed — A style of dyeing where dye sits on the surface of the fabric rather than penetrating deeply, giving a deliberate faded, worn-in aesthetic.
Sizing Specs
Half Chest — Measured across the chest from seam to seam, halfway down. If a size chart gives you a half chest of 51cm for Medium, the full chest circumference is 102cm. Always double this when comparing to your own measurements.
Length — Measured from the highest point of the shoulder (at the collar) straight down to the hem.
Shopping for blank tees doesn't have to feel like decoding a spec sheet. Once you know what you're looking at, it's actually pretty straightforward — and you'll end up with a shirt that's exactly right for what you need.
Browse our full range of blank tees at basically.co.nz.
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